Lumsden, March 14th 2018

Dear friends and family,

We hope you are all doing well and that it's getting warmer. Here, it's getting colder every day!

It was heartbreaking to leave Akaroa. Fortunately, we had some friends to meet in Christchurch. It was a good occasion to test some nice cafés and take some news from our former colleagues.

Christchurch C4
Christchurch C4

Getting warm

We are now ready and eager to discover the South Island, its magnificence and diversity have been so much praised.

We began with the Lake Tekapo, one of the biggest and deepest of New Zealand and one of the most famous. Once visited the small "Church of the Good Shepherd" by the lake, we hiked a bit along the shore.

Lake Tekapo Church of the Good Shepherd

The Church of the Good Shepherd

Lake Tekapo

Clouds are coming

Lake Tekapo

It's getting dark

Lake Tekapo

Our campground by the lake

Lake Tekapo

We call that "Bush Art"

A few kilometers from there is the Lake Punakaki, close to the Mount Cook. Its size and color are very similar to Lake Tekapo's. But this time, the sun is shining and we can really appreciate its beauty. Its blue color comes from the glacier water and from the sediments on its ground.

Lake Pukaki

The lake is blue, the clouds are white and prominent

We drove along the lake, noticing the sky is getting cloudier by the minute; this is not going to help us to get a glimpse of the "Roof of New Zealand". We still stayed optimistic! To get ready for the next day hike, we walked the whole afternoon close to the mountains and glaciers. The mountain landscape is definitely nice but low gray clouds prevented us from having the full picture.

Mount Cook
Mount Cook

The Mount Cook, behind the clouds!

On the next day, after an apocalyptic night at the bottom of Mount Cook, the weather seemed to be a bit more clement and we decided to hike towards the Mueller Hut we were told so much about. We'll have to climb 1000m in 5km. It starts with a lot of annoying steps (1972 to be exact) followed by big rocks we fly on, to end up at the top and discover the majestic glaciers and surrounding mountains. Some big clouds prevent us to see the Mount Cook (again) but the view is still gorgeous. We will only have a short glimpse of the Mount Cook once back at the van - it was still worth climbing!

Mount Cook Seal Tarn

After 1972 steps, the clouds are close. Let's continue!

Mount Cook Valley

View over the valley and our campground almost invisible

Mount Cook

We swear the Mount Cook is right behind!

Mount Cook

Unobstructed view on the glaciers

Mount Cook

Left to right: a lone walker, a rainbow and the glaciers that shout

After these days inland, we drove towards the shore to Oamaru and its colonies of penguins and seals that we already know after the few weeks on the Fox II. The small town is cute and we liked its small harbour.

Geraldine Café
Geraldine Café

Inevitable stop in Geraldine and its small café

Elephant Rocks
Elephant Rocks
Elephant Rocks

Climbing at Elephant Rocks

Oamaru

Oamaru

We continued our trip to the South to see with our own eyes the scenery of our travel guide cover.

The Moeraki Boulders are round rock formations that, with erosion, are now on the beach and are only visible at low tide. The weather is getting worse and it's under a slightly thick fog that we discover these perfect balls. Mystic! A different style from the idyllic "Petit Futé"" picture.

Moeraki Boulders

Looking for a scientific explanation

Moeraki Boulders
Moeraki Boulders petit futé
Moeraki Boulders

Quite different, isn't it?

Moeraki Lighthouse
Moeraki Lighthouse

Let's not be too picky with the local fauna pictures

So elegant!

We then headed more south to Dunedin, the most Scottish city of New Zealand - and proved it by welcoming us with some heavy rain. The city is young and dynamic with several universities in the center and Street Art all over. A good reason to stroll in the streets.

Dunedin Rail Station

Train Station

Dunedin Street Art
Dunedin Street Art
Dunedin Street Art

Our best picture of the Yellow Eyed Penguins and other examples of Street Art

When the sun finally came back, we discovered the beautiful Otago Peninsula. It is full (we were told) of Yellow-Eyed Penguins and Little Blue Penguins. Well, we looked for them! But we only saw seals, sea lions, sea gulls and oystercatchers. Again and again... But the peninsula is striking; we wandered around the beaches and the coast under an amazing sun!

Otago Peninsula

Splendid cliff and water

Otago Peninsula
Otago Peninsula
Otago Peninsula

Stunning day and peaceful peninsula: what more?!

Otago Peninsula
Otago Peninsula

Seals and sea lions also enjoy this lovely day

Otago Peninsula
Otago Peninsula

Left: oystercatchers (one of our favorite birds). Right: a camouflaged seal

Before going even more South (it's coming to an end), we have to pass our First Aid Certificate. Léonie because she needs it for a job starting the following week and Baptiste by curiosity. We learnt a lot of new vocabulary and learnt again the basics of First Aid - with a strong kiwi accent!

Once First Aid certified, we left for the Catlins, the most Southernmost region of New Zealand, relatively neglected by tourists because it is less accessible. That's another reason to go there, but also because we are meeting again with Sarina, our former colleague on the Fox II.

Catlins Nugget Point
Catlins Nugget Point

Nugget Point (didn't find the KFC...)

Catlins

Do you see what the tree is telling us?! (hint: AUS)

Catlins Jack Blowhole

Jack's Blowhole: waves get in (more than 50m away) to dig the rock in a gigantic blowhole - more impressive at high tide!

Catlins Cathedral Cave

Tunnels of the Cathedral Cave join in the back

Catlins Cathedral Cave
Catlins Cathedral Cave

The ocean digs deeper every day

The coast is sumptuous: beautiful beaches and amazing cliffs. We also caught sight of Yellow-Eyed Penguins (well, we had to hide for an hour) that came back from their daily fishing, from afar... very far. We won't be picky with pictures, it's already a big victory to see them.

Catlins
Catlins

A sea lion photobombing our picture, then reading the warning about sea lions

Catlins

High grass, sea lion and Stewart Island in the back

After going to the Northenmost and the Easternmost points of New Zealand, we had to go the remote Southernmost point. Nothing incredible, but we met again faithful friends: some sheep and the wind!

Slope Point
Slope Point

There is a long way before the South Pole

After a brief passage in Bluff (we were not bluffed), the Southernmost city of New Zealand, from where you can see Stewart Island, we went back North towards Queenstown and Glenorchy.

Bluff

What a long way since Cape Reinga

Bluff

Stewart Island ahead. The Island south of the South Island

Queenstown is the most active city: its perfect situation close to the mountains and by a big lake (Lake Wakatipu) makes it an ideal destination for both ski lovers in winter and the ones seeking thrilling outdoor activities. We were told that commercial bungee jumping was invented there.

Kingston

A few kilometers away from Queenstown, Kingston is where we first saw the Lake Wakatipu

We just crossed Queenstown to go to Glenorchy where Léo is starting a horse riding guide job.

Glenorchy
Glenorchy
Glenorchy

The surrounding landscapes are amazing. At the entrance of the city you can read "Welcome to Paradise"

The experience was short but interesting. To summarize, she was lucky to ride for 3 days, but soon realized that the job wasn't for her. As she wasn't actually essential as it is the end of the season, we decided to hit the road again South towards the Fiordland.

Glenorchy
Glenorchy

Nice backs!

We are now in Lumsden, at the crossroad of several destinations, in a campground we've already been and particularly like because of their Alpacas.

Lumbsden Alpacas

Steer clear of the spit!

Big hugs,

Léonie & Baptiste